Tuesday 3 February 2009

Tradition, tradition...

By Illi Adato

It’s Friday night, we are at the Shabbat table at a friend’s house. The air is full of seductive cooking smells and we are all in our best outfits ready for the meal. Naturally, the host begins with Kiddush. When he reaches for the wine to fill up the silver cup, the guests noticed that the bottle is not one of the ‘classic’ Kiddush wines such as Palwin No. 10 or Kedem but rather a ‘proper’ bottle of wine. Being the wine-lover that I am, I recognised this ultra-special Spanish kosher wine called Flor de Primavera 2001. Excited and in anticipation of the forthcoming experience, I sat and waited my turn to sip, noticing the couple sitting opposite me looked at each other, somewhat puzzled, as if to ask, ‘is he going to make the blessing on this wine ?’ Well, yes he did.

What followed next was quite unusual; while the cup was circulating around, instead of the usual sip-and-pass-it-on routine, the guests seems to take a bit longer tasting and the expression on everyone’s face seemed a touch more thoughtful and cheerful, including the doubtful couple opposite me.

Jews are probably the only race that religiously puts wine consumption high on the agenda. Week in week out we’re invited to sit at the Shabbat table and conduct a mini-wine-tasting. Lucky us, but, why do we seem to repeatedly choose a sweet syrup
for the occasion that hardly comes close to the taste of real wine ?

The answer, I believe, rests in two areas: Tradition and Misconception. For most people, the Shabbat dinner echoes old family traditions and the selection of a kiddush wine is simply habitual. As for misconception; most people are basically unaware that the Friday night Kiddush can offer much more then a grape-flavoured cordial.

“There is no such thing as Kiddush Wine” say Rabbi Michael Biberfeld of South Tottenham United Synagogue. “It is a term invented by wine producers”. He adds, “You can make Kiddush with any wine; white, red, sweet or dry as long as it’s kosher”.

Alongside the diehard traditionalists are a different group who welcome the advent of exciting fine kosher wines to their Shabbat table. “I’ll use a good Cabernet for our Friday night Kiddush” says Meir Braun of Stamford Hill. Meir is impressed with the latest Israel’s wines have to offer and regularly explores new flavours. “The Galil Mountain Pinot Noir is a recent favourite of mine” he adds. Dana & Ilan Preiss, a young couple in Hendon will enjoy the Dalton Red Canaan for their Kiddush or a supple, fruity Austrian-made Zweigelt by Hafner. Samuel Klein, a wine enthusiast from Borehamwood receives the majestic Shabbat with Marquise De St. Esteph 2000 from Bordeaux, a cool Burgundy Chardonnay or with one of Israel’s finest, the Dalton Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve.

Our ancient Shabbat ritual is a beautiful tradition which provides us with a wonderful opportunity to taste and explore new wines in the company of our loved ones. So why not make a break from the old routine and open up to new experiences? This will not only enhance your appreciation of wine but will also give you and your guests something to talk about at the dinner table. Next time you are planning a Friday night dinner, give your guests the total Shabbat experience.

My perfect wine list for a Shabbat dinner looks like this:

Kiddush – one of the leading Israeli fine Cabernet wines or a Californian Zinfandel.

Starter – A French Chablis or a reserve Sauvignon Blanc.

Main Course – Powerful Bordeaux or a Bordeaux Bland (Cabernet/Merlot) from a top producer.

Desert – Noble Sweet, late harvest wine or Austrian Ice wine.

Lech’aim.